On the Wilder Side of Venice
Densely forested until the end of the Middle Ages, the borders of the lagoon were once rich with fauna such as wild boar, roe deer, wild goat, wolf and fox. Otters occupied the lagoon itself until the 1970s when the Mustelid disappeared because of pollution, increased boating, hunting and fish nets.
Though commercial fishing became less important in the eighteenth century it continues today: the best period being from the end of summer to autumn and the most favored catch being the dory, bass, five different species of mullet and eel. Hunting in the lagoon is legal from the end of September to January and small camouflage shelters for the hunters can be seen at the edge of the barene, used mainly for duck shooting.
While fauna is no longer as numerous as it was, the diversity still present in and around the lagoon may surprise someone used to thinking of Venice and its immediate surroundings as a place of cultural rather than natural beauty. Among the more noteworthy animals, a few jackals venturing from the Balkans have been seen around the lagoon; but more typically regional remain the wild boar, fox, deer, badger, polecat, marten, squirrel, three types of bat. Dolphins have been occasionally seen inside the lagoon near the outlets to the sea. Two sorts of snake, three sorts of turtle inhabit the lagoon itself. Within its perimeter, however, it is bird watching that would seem to be the main hope and focus of eco-tourism. Pink flamingos are found in the northern valle of Grassabo. Other characteristic or rare birds in the lagoon include the Pettegola or Redshank, the Fistione Turco or Red-crested, the Gruccione or Bee-eater, the Ghiandaia marina or Roller and the rarer Aquila (Anatria Maggiore).
Alien species, some introduced accidentally, others intentionally, as to benefit commercial fishing, find a niche in the warm, shallow waters. These are mostly mollusks, crustaceans and algae; but the Nutria, a large beaver-like South American rodent, is another.
The answer to this may well be that if nature is further allowed to recuperate and thrive in harmony with other aspects of Venice, success will almost certainly be assured.
The Commune of Venice, in collaboration with a number of environmental associations and scientific organizations, has in the last few years set aside protected areas or oasi to serve as sanctuaries for migratory or local fauna and flora and to provide Venetians with more parks. The largest, the Valle dell’Averto, is in the southwestern portion of the lagoon. At the Lido’s northern and southern tips are, respectively, the oasi of San Nicolo (1 km and a half long) and oasi degli Alberoni (120 ha). South of the Lido, on the island of Pellestrina, is the oasi di Ca’ Roman (70 ha) near the Chioggia passage.
Of the thirty-two larger islands among the hundred and eighteen in the lagoon, most have remained more or less terra incognita for the average traveler. But some of these are gradually entering the tourist main circuit and have, in most cases, both a cultural and a rural appeal. Tourists seeking escape from the crowds and wanting a different perspective on Venice will find these destinations easily accessible by public transportation. La Certosa, closest to the city, Lazzaretto Nuovo, Mazzorbetto and Mazzorbo, San Francesco del Deserto, San Giacomo in Paludo, offer a charming combination of historic buildings and the contemplative mood of their natural setting. The uninhabited Isola dei Laghi, and the larger Le Vignole and San Erasmo, traditionally used for horticultural, as well as by Venetians in need of greenery and fresh air, are more rural; leaving the campaniles and domes delicately etched in the distance, one is brought here a little closer to the wilder lagoon. Taking a step still further towards wilderness will lead one to a number of private enterprises offering eco-tours to groups of two to fifty people. One named “Laguna Eco Adventures” offers sail or motor day expeditions in traditional flat-bottomed boats from April to October. Il Bragozzo offers trips all year round. Most of these small enterprises will tailor the trip to the client’s wishes. The question is whether a sufficient portion of the growing tourism to Venice will take this new bait. The answer to this may well be that if nature is further allowed to recuperate and thrive in harmony with other aspects of Venice, success will almost certainly be assured. The idea that the famously beautiful city could in the future achieve a balanced cohabitation with its nature and restore its wildlife to former standards offers an irresistible prospect. The obvious cultural restrictions put on urban expansion, and the lagoon’s traditional functional but also recreational role, along with a coordinated will to improve the quality of its environment, might just make this possible.
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